There are thousands of different ingredients used in body care products today. A survey done by the Environmental Working Group found that the average American uses nine body care products daily, which they estimated contained a combined 126 different ingredients.⁴ Each of us is unique, and each of us will have a unique reaction to the different ingredients or combination of ingredients found in our body care products. Three individuals can use the same product and one might have an immediate bad reaction, one might not notice ill effects until after a couple weeks of use and one might think the product is just perfect for their skin. The numerous ingredients in our body care products and the complexity with which they can react on different people’s skin makes tracking down safe ingredients and products tricky.

The following steps will help to make the process of finding products that work for your skin without irritating it easier.

1. Keep It Simple

Although it is tempting to pile on the skin care products (a cleanser, exfoliater, layers of anti-aging serums, moisturizer and sunscreen, and that is all before the make-up!), the more products you use, the more ingredients you expose your skin to and the greater your chances of reacting to one of those ingredients or a combination of them. You also run the risk of inadvertently irritating your skin through the combined action of the different products. To care for sensitive skin, keep it simple—just a couple of good-quality products will likely be plenty effective and gentle on your skin. It is also a good idea to look for products with fewer and simpler ingredients to begin with. And if you are one who really loves using many different skin care products but have sensitive skin, consider rotating products so some are used in the morning and others are used at night, or even every other day. Also consider using products that may be more drying or irritating (like some masks and exfoliants) only once a week.

2. Understand Label Claims

Many manufacturers use claims such as hypoallergenic, dermatologist tested or for sensitive skin to market their products. Unfortunately, there are no standards or definitions that govern the use of these terms. In fact, according to the FDA’s website, the term hypoallergenic “means whatever a particular company wants it to mean,” leaving consumers left without any real information or guarantee about the product. You may also see the USDA organic seal or organic ingredients in body care products. Organic ingredients were grown and processed without the use of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and crop irradiation.  The organic system of farming helps to maintain and replenish the health of the soil while keeping synthetic pesticides out of the environment and minimizing our personal exposure to them. While buying organic body care products is good for you and the environment, it does not necessarily guarantee that a product will be better for sensitive skin. Instead of relying on manufacturer marketing claims or third-party certifications, reading ingredient labels is your best way to go.

3. Avoid Red Flag Ingredients

While it is not possible to create a definitive list of the “safe” and “unsafe” ingredients for sensitive skin, there are a few ingredients that more commonly cause irritation. While you may or may not find your skin is sensitive to these ingredients, avoiding them may be a good place to start. Note that these ingredients are not likely to be problematic for those who do not have sensitive skin.

• Fragrance is usually a mixture of several natural or synthetic chemical ingredients, which are not required to be listed out separately since these are considered “trade secrets” by the FDA. Even some products labeled as “unscented” may still contain a small amount of fragrance to mask the smell of other ingredients, without giving the product a noticeable scent.⁵ Fragrance ingredients are one of the most common causes of allergic dermatitis.⁶
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a surfactant used to remove oils and dirt from the skin so they can be washed away and as a foaming agent in many soaps, shampoos and home cleaning products. It may be drying to the skin, which can increase overall skin sensitivity.^{7 8 9}
• The term alcohol used by itself on a body care label usually refers to ethyl alcohol, which can be drying to the skin. There are however many alcohols such as cetyl, stearyl, or lanolin alcohol that do not appear to have a negative effect on most people’s skin.
• Exfoliating Scrubs and Washes that use abrasive ingredients such as walnut shells, pumice, apricot kernels and polyethylene can be too much for delicate skin, especially skin that is already broken out, inflamed or otherwise damaged.
• Essential Oils are highly concentrated substances derived from plants that bear the aroma of that plant. While they are natural and many have beneficial effects on the skin, some individuals may find certain essential oils irritating to their skin.
• Many other ingredients used commonly in conventional body care products can cause irritation, such as the preservative butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), chemical sunscreens (oxybenzone, octocrylene, avobenzone, etc.), formaldehyde and formaldehyde donors, mineral oil, parabens, and artificial fragrances.

4. Investigate Other Possible Causes for Skin Sensitivity

The skin is a window into the overall health of the body and is often the first place internal imbalances show up. It is affected not only by what we put on our skin, but also what we eat, breathe in and otherwise come in contact with in our daily lives. Exposure to chemicals found in everyday household products and even nail polish can cause skin irritation. Evaluate the products you are regularly in contact with for a possible connection.

Food allergies and sensitivities can sometimes cause irritated, swollen, red, itchy and flaky skin that may be mistaken for sensitive skin. Work with a qualified health practitioner or a Nutritional Health Coach to determine if food may be contributing to your skin problems. 

5. Choose simple and effective ingredients that are less likely to irritate sensitive skin and may actually be soothing and healing

Look for products that list the following ingredients in the ingredient list or use these skin soothers to mix up your own simple beauty products. Remember that even though these ingredients tend to be safe for most all skin types, it is still wise to test a on small patch of skin before using all over to ensure they are right for your skin.

• Skin-soothing oils such as borage, evening primrose, sea buckthorn, argan, olive, and rose hip seed.
• Skin-healing and soothing herbs and essential oils such as chamomile, calendula, feverfew, and white willow bark. Essential oils should never be applied directly to the skin and instead should be combined in small amounts with a carrier oil, like the ones mentioned above.
• Aloe vera is cooling, healing and soothing and helps modulate inflammation.
• Honey is healing and helps fight infection and inflammation. When allowed to sit on the skin, it also gently exfoliates the skin.
• Oats are soothing for minor skin irritations and itching. Rolled oats also make a gentle exfoliant and cleanser when they are finely ground and mixed with water.                                                 

Gluten, Dairy and Other Common Food Allergens on the Skin

It is generally agreed that gluten, and other large proteins (which include casein found in dairy), are not able to cross intact skin and therefore are not likely to cause internal reactions when used topically in those who have food allergies or sensitivities. However, body care products containing common food allergens can be inadvertently ingested, especially from lip and face products and even from products applied to the hands. While the amount that is likely to be ingested from this sort of exposure is low, it may still be problematic for some people. It is also possible to have a skin allergy to common food allergens (gluten, dairy or soy for example), although this may or may not be connected to the food allergy itself. Many body care products are now formulated to be gluten-free and products that are suitable for vegans are free of all dairy-derived ingredients. However, if you suspect a certain food-derived ingredient may be irritating your skin, it is best to contact the manufacturer directly to get accurate information about the ingredients used in their products.

To learn more about caring for your skin from the inside out please check out the following resources:

• Figuring Out Fats
• The Ultimate Guide to Healthy Skin

References

1. Misery L, Sibaud V, Merial-Kieny C, Taieb C. Sensitive skin in the American population: prevalence, clinical data, and role of the dermatologist. Int J Dermatol. 2011;50(8):961-967.
2. http://www.dermnetnz.org/reactions/sensitive-skin.html
3. http://www.webmd.com/beauty/skin/sensitive-skin-20-questions
4. n.a. Why This Matters – Cosmetics and your health. EWG’s Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database. Available at: http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/2011/04/12/why-this-matters/
5. http://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/ingredients/ucm388821.htm
6. Johansen JD. Fragrance contact allergy: a clinical review. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003;4(11):789-798.
7. Robinson VC, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Final report of the amended safety assessment of sodium laureth sulfate and related salts of sulfated ethoxylated alcohols. Int J Toxicol. 2010;29(Suppl 3): 151S-161S.
8. Branco N, Lee I, Zhai H, Maibach HI. Long-term repetitive sodium lauryl sulfate-induced irritation of the skin: an in vivo study. Contact Dermatitis. 2005;53(5):278-284.
9. Marrakchi S, Maibach HI. Sodium lauryl sulfate-induced irritation in the human face: regional and age-related differences. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006;19(3):177-180.